The southern tip of Uttara Kannada belongs to Bhatkal (ಭಟ್ಕಳ), set between the Arabian Sea and the Western Ghats near the Sharabi river. NH 66 cuts straight through the town, and its station is one of the major stops on the Konkan Railway; the railway's training academy for its own staff is based there too. Bhatkal is also the district's main centre for private buses, and private services on NH 66 link it with Mumbai, Goa, Mangaluru, Bengaluru and Kerala. A Bhatkal shop serves people arriving from many directions.
Trade here goes back centuries. Under the Vijayanagara kings, Bhatkal's port dealt with Arab merchants, and spices and sugar passed through it; in 1502 a Portuguese fleet under Vasco da Gama attacked and burned the port. Many of the town's merchant families are Nawayath, a Muslim community whose roots lie with seafarers and traders from Yemen, Oman, the Gulf and Persia. Their language, Nawayathi, is built on Konkani and written in Persian script. During British rule, Nawayath traders opened textile shops and hotels as far away as Bombay and Madras.
The Gulf connection is part of living memory. A Gulf News report names a Bhatkal man who went to Dubai in 1935 as the first from the town to make that journey, and Dubai has drawn Bhatkalis ever since. Back home, Bhatkal has long been known for its imported-goods market, which was trading well before India's economic liberalisation. People in town simply call it Dubai Market, and a visitor who needs directions is told to ask for it by that name.
Food and fish keep many people busy. Bhatkali cooking blends Yemeni and Konkan styles. Its signature dish is Bhatkali biryani: rice spiced with garam masala and saffron, layered with mutton, chicken, fish or prawns cooked separately. There is also shayya biryani, made with vermicelli. Sandow halwa, a milky, nutty sweet, tops one Newslaundry writer's list of things Bhatkalis want their town known for. The town has one large, one medium and one small fishing port, and the Sharabi river harbour has a 186-metre wharf. The same report says fishing families across the Bhatkal–Honnavar area do well from the Nawayath appetite for fish.
Bhatkal has given its name to a flower as well. Bhatkal mallige, a variety of jasmine, was first grown here about a hundred years ago before it spread to Shankarapura in Udupi district, and coastal jasmine is in demand as far away as Mumbai. The town's calendar runs through Ramadan, both Eids, Muharram and Milad-un-Nabi as well as Sankranti, Nagara Panchami, Ganesh Chaturthi, Navaratri and Deepavali. Education matters here too: the Anjuman Hami-e-Muslimeen trust has run schools and colleges in Bhatkal, from kindergarten to postgraduate, since 1919.
Bhatkal town, Shirali and the villages we visit
Bhatkal is the first Uttara Kannada town on the road north from our Udupi studio. We come up to meet owners in the town's markets, by the beaches and in the villages inland.
- Jali
- Tenginagundi
- Venkatapur
- Shirali
- Bengre
- Belke
- Mavinkurve
- Heble
- Kaikini
- Konar
- Ternamakki
- Hadavalli
Sources: en.wikipedia.org · gulfnews.com · newslaundry.com · anjuman.edu.in